On the way north, we decided to go on a Nenana River float trip. It's a grey, silty river with class III and IV rapids rated not so much for their difficulty as for the very cold water. These dry suits kept us mostly dry, but did nothing to keep the cold out.
Fairbanks, the farthest north sizable city in the US. We were generously hosted by Bob and Wendy Arundale whom I knew from old college outing club days. Wendy attended Brown/Pembroke and Bob was Rensselaer Outing Club president the year before I took over the reins. It was good to catch up on the many years between visits.
The University of Alaska Fairbanks museum has great artwork and natural history displays. We have discovered the work of Sidney Laurence whose paintings remind me a bit of the Hudson River school, though not quite as flamboyant. The museum expansion off 1997 lends a modern, sweeping aspect to the campus on the ridge above town.
The UAF has a number of Musk Oxen in their experimental animal compound. I remember back in the 1950's, John Teal tried to raise them in Vermont with little success. He then came here to Alaska where it worked out better. The inner hair of Musk Ox is prized for its texture and warmth.
When in Fairbanks, you are only 180 miles or so from the Arctic Circle so, why not? Heading north on the Haul Road we followed the pipeline, a true wonder of the modern world. Its 48 inch tube carries much of the oil fueling this trip. I didn't realize that the crude coming out of the well is hot, some 180 degrees or so. The tube is insulated and rests on special stanchions with heat exchangers to vent heat to the air to preserve permafrost. It is zig-zagged and can slide sideways ten feet either way to avoid earthquake damage. The caribou have apparently become used to crossing underneath. Quite a piece of engineering.
A few miles south of the circle, the road crests a rocky outcropping called Finger Mountain. Haven't figured out yet which finger... The tundra vegetation is already showing fall colors.
After about six hours on the road, we arrived at 66 degrees 33 seconds north latitude, the Arctic Circle where on September 21 the sun goes in a circle around the horizon and then disappears for the next six months. Today, it was 60 degrees warm and gorgeous.
Chena Hot Springs has a unique thermal power plant which works on 185 degree water and generates 400 kilowatts. The water only drops ten or fifteen degrees and can still be used for winter heating, hot soaking pools and great vegetable growing; 6000 pounds of tomatoes per month!
What would an Alaska trip be without visiting a kennel. Summertime is lazy days for the pups.
We left Fairbanks and headed up the Taylor Highway. Lots of "drunken trees" line the roads. These are Black Spruce growing in moist muskeg areas. There is a thin layer of soil over the permafrost, so the roots can't get a good hold and the trees are victims of wind and gravity.
Yes, there is a Chicken, Alaska. Rural myth has it that the founders wanted to name it Ptarmigan but were afraid they wouldn't be able to spell it correctly so settled on Chicken!
Panning for gold is fun but hard on the knees. I learned a lot about what isn't gold, such as pyrites and such. No "flash in the pan" this time.
The Top of the World Highway is spectacular. Eighty miles of well packed gravel winding along the ridge top towards Dawson City on the Yukon River.
That's all for now...
ola de palo alto
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